Showing posts with label Holiday. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Holiday. Show all posts

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Vladivostok to Paris.....


Thank you to those who have been patient awaiting some happy snaps from my trip - and to those who have been less patient (you know who you are!) - bite me! I can at last give you the reader's digest version of my holiday with some photos. Clearly some serious culling of the 1500 photos I took had to be done, as well as some tasteful editing.

So here goes... you in the back row, dim the lights and pass the popcorn around!

So we started our holiday in Vladivostok in the far east of Russia. The food was a combination of Russian and Asian, and the city was not the prettiest I have seen, but down on the waterfront it was making a good attempt at being the Paris of the East. Shame about the old people bathing in the ocean in their dirty underwear.

















Now you can't say that the Russians don't do their Museums classy..... This museum in Vladivostok had no English to help us out - but we found it wasn't needed with priceless installations like this one to illustrate the military communications in action. Apparently bald, stiff women, wearing their headphones over their earlobes are the top elite of the Russian Military....













Don't let anyone ever tell you that Siberia is a barren land. It was green and lush.. and went on for miles... and miles... and miles....







On our way across the continent, we cooled our heels in Listvyanka for a few days. This lovely town is on the shores of Lake Baikal - which is the largest freshwater lake in the world. It was quite stunning, although the waters proved far too cold for me to want to swim. That said, it was quite the spot for some tourists to dress in matching outfits... just in case they lost each other in the milling crowds perhaps?


I just adored the English menus that we encountered during the trip. Irrespective of how bad the English was, they did guide us to what we should eat, and other times, like this example, they were pure champagne comedy. I just want to know how it can deliver to me the "constant pleasure"....


One thing that we encountered nearly everywhere (except in the far west of Russia in fact), was elderly people selling their goods. Sometimes some potatoes, other times a pile of watermelons, and in the truly sad cases, a single cup of sunflower seeds. A micro-second after I took this photo of this very typical and stylish Russian peasant, she berated me geatly. Apparently, there is still a hangover of fear from the communist days....














For some reason, many people have this idea that the Trans-Siberian train is a luxury train trip. Let me dispel that myth now... this is how illustrious accomodations for 6.5 days on the train. What you also don't see in this photo is the two bunks that were above these beds - four people in this space - many days - no showers..... SMELLY.







For a building that would strike the fear in many communist era Soviets, the Lubyanka Prison is surprisingly unimposing.








When a country "needs" a thermometer, here mounted on one of the walls of a building inside the grounds of the Kremlin, that needs to go from +50 to -40 degrees Celsius - you just have to be impressed with that!



















Ah St Petersburg... part Venice, part Paris and all parts Russian schmaltz. How beautiful it is!











If anyone has read any Solzhenitsyn, more specifically "The Gulag Archipelago", this is where it starts - on Solovetsky Island in the far north - in the middle of the White Sea. A former monastery was used to become one of the Soviet Union's most brutal Gulag camps earlier last century. It has been restored as a monastery, but the sinister history remains.



At the top of a hair-raising hill, the monks built a quaint chapel, which was turned into housing for the most severely punished of the inmates of Solovetsky Island.




















Spotted around the island are memorials like this to honour the dead from the island of Solovetski. This particular monument is at the base of the hill from the charming chapel above. Inmates were pushed off the hill and allowed to fall to their deaths. Of course, this is all alleged.....


















Despite the tragic history of the island and the fact that it is brutally cold, it is also stunningly quiet and relatively unspoilt. Sunbathing on the White Sea anyone? I think there was a warm day in August......



















The main street of Solovetsky Island.... at peak hour. Is this an island ripe for the tourist dollar or what?










We left the far north of Russia to descend to the bottom of the Crimea. The coast of Yalta, on the Black Sea, is quite stunning. Gorgeous water, steep mountains that descend to the sea, palaces dotted along the coastline..... If you can see through the melee of tourists that is!






No holiday of mine is complete without photographs of food I consumed. Much of the Russian cuisine was a tad staid, but here I present to you "Toreador's Delight"... or in other words, Bull's Testicles.









This beautiful vista belongs to the port city of Balaclava - which disappointingly couldn't sell me even one aforenamed object. But it did have a secret under-mountain Soviet submarine hideaway......











On a pedestrian footbridge in Odessa were literally hundreds of locks with couples names on them. Almost romantic except for the chastity belt overtones.









Something I hadn't seen anywhere in Russia, and only once in the Ukraine...Smoking is accepted everywhere - so I was stunned to find one place where it wasn't!

















So here at last we make it to the road to Chernobyl. (Hint: the first town name on the sign is Chernobyl in Cyrillic.)












So here is the little trouble maker - Reactor No 4. We were allowed surprisingly, and somewhat disturbingly, close. Although apparently we weren't supposed to take photos of the reactor at this distance....










After hanging around the reactor area for a while, we moved on to the town of Pripyat, which is in fact the nearest town to the reactor and was totally evacuated. It is commonly referred to as a ghost town. Here we got to see the sites of the local international hotel...


















Here is your salubrious foyer area leading to the five star dining room for nightly entertainment.











OK, I will stop the comedy schtick for a bit. Some of the rooms, like this one, have some furniture left behind, but most of them have been totally gutted, including removal of the toilet pedestals. Windows have been smashed in, paint peeling from the walls, 20 years and a lot of looting has left the town unrecognisable.








From the rooftop entertaining area, views toward the fateful Reactor 4 (in the far distance) are a creepy reminder of what this town was once about. The 50 000 residents of Pripyat were essentially all employed in and about the reactors. The money and conditions were superior to other areas of the Soviet Union, and it was considered a prosperous town.

















Twenty-two years and trees are growing everywhere - even on rooftops. Feels very apocalyptic.



















Grafitti like this on the outside of the building, with the dismembered elevator buttons in the foreground, is ghostly and quite a reminder of what is now lost.
















The local fun park provides a stark contrast of the fun once experienced here - and the children now, more than likely, deceased.




















Overgrown and rusted out - the dodgem cars are a far cry from what they once were. Between the cracks in the bitumen, this area had amazingly high levels of background radiation, leeching out from the ground underneath.











Local boats were left were they last were moored and rusted away. Any equipment that was in the area, including the cars and trucks used in the cleanup, still remain there as they are too radioactive to be removed.

















The local pool and sports facility were used for years after the accident by staff that remained in the area operating the remaining reactors, until they too could be safely shut down.


















We at last reach Paris, where I can read signs, understand the locals and enjoy the food. It smacks a little of commercialism now, but I had to visit the shelves of Shakespeare and Co, even if just to stock up on plane reading material.











Not only was the food to be eaten in Paris totally magic, but also the locations were indescribable. Here in the Musee D'Orsay, I supped on a divine lunch, sipping champagne (adding "French" to the front of that statement is redundant you know...). I understand the museum has a few paintings and stuff to look at as well. Apparently....







From the steps of the Sacre Couer at the top of the Montmartre at sunset.... divine. Just needed wine and cheese and a handsome man to make it totally perfect.












Yet again some photos of food for you to salivate over. A lunch where I can have wine, pate and other delicious morsels, whilst overlooking the rooftops of Paris, with the Eiffel tower in the distance - is wonderful. Hmm, wonderful sounds not quite enough... really wonderful?











Another thing I take LOTS of photos of is flowers. I haven't inflicted them on you lovely people, for fear of boredom. But this one, I couldn't resist. In the Tuilieres gardens, in front of the Louvre, a simple flower garden, with a majestic statue behind - magic.



So there is the reader's digest version of my holiday snaps for you all. I had an amazing time and have some spectacular memories of the whole experience.

Thursday, October 02, 2008

There's no place like home....

And I'm back home again! It is indeed wonderful to be home, although work is tedious as usual. Such an amazing trip with a million photos to go through and organise. Perhaps when I can remove a digit, I will post some of the more interesting photos on here for you all to get bored over.

My last few days in Paris were spectacular, although I was most distressed to find the only museum I wanted to see was shut for the next few months for renovations. For your information, it was the Picasso Museum, since I am a bit of a fan of Pablo. Finally in Paris I was able to get my fill of shopping and magnificent food. The weather was wonderful, the sights glorious and all was delightful. The last time I was in Paris was about 10 years ago with my (then) husband. It is strange thing in a way to revisit cities once travelled with significant other halves.

I have revisited a few places, and all seem so much more interesting now. And I am not quite sure why. Perhaps, it is merely that I am older, wiser and more savvy as both a traveller and a person now, so that the cities and the experiences are vastly different. I absolutely adored wandering the streets of Paris, desperate to find the next back alley where I could find a little unknown shop or cafe. That is certainly something we didn't do on that trip back in 1998, but maybe it was also because we were desperately trying to see all the "must-see's". Now I didn't feel the need to do that sort of thing and happily took myself where the day might lead. There are a few more places I think I need to go to again now without the encumbrance of that marriage and to make new memories of those locations.

There are so many stories that I am sure I will think of over the next few weeks that I shall garnish this blog with them from time to time. One thing worth noting from any trip that I seem to take is the number three. No matter how long I am away for, be it six days or six weeks, I am assured to buy at least three pairs of shoes. Given that I have had three overseas trips this year so far, you can imagine that state of my shoe collection!

On other notes, Subtle is glad to have me back. And I am glad to be had back. There is some time to be made up for - a girl could get giddy from all of this activity and lack of sleep. Although I am suspicious that I will survive.

Monday, September 15, 2008

Just a quickie...

Things have been progressing, as holidays are apt to do, and this morning I am at Kiev airport awaiting my flight to Paris. This is our last stop before returning home at the end of the week. After all the other locations, Paris will be easy. For a start, we can read the writing... secondly, I can speak some very basic French. Certainly enough to know when we are being ripped off!

Two days ago we had what was surely the major highlight of the trip - we went on a day trip to Chernobyl. It was totally amazing! As we drove out we were shown a dosemeter to observe the slowly increasing background radiation levels. Of course, this meant little to most people except me, as the only physicist in attendance. But it was so surreal. The empty town with the images of the abandoned ferris wheel and sports centre. We were able to go into a former hotel and it was amazing to look over the town - which had a perfect view of Reactor 4 which blew - and this town that was once bustling with 50 000 people, and is now desolate. The drive out there, the group of us was laughing and joking. On the drive back to Kiev, we were quiet and contemplative. A truly amazing experience.

Sunday, September 07, 2008

Farewell Russia and hello the Ukraine!

Hello again from the wilds of my holiday! Isn't it completely tedious hearing about the adventures that someone else is having when you are at home doing boring work things and so on? Yeah. Well, bite me.

So anyway, I left Moscow after I last wrote, and ventured on to St Petersburg. Such a glorious looking city and full of tourists.... Of course, it seems that the only tourists in Russia are Russians. Unfortunately this means that everything is given in Russian for tours, and all the information written in places like The Hermitage are in Russian.... you get the idea. Nevertheless, we had a delightful time, and spent our last night in St Petersburg at a kitch themed restaurant. Every inch of the restaurant, including the mirrored ceiling, was covered in busts of Lenin. It was fantastic. The man is some sort of God, and every town has at least one statue of Lenin. Is it a little wrong to revere one man so much?

After St Petersburg, we traveled north to Archangelsk, which honestly has little recommend itself, except that it was a launching place for us to go to Solovetsky Island. The island is the location of the first, and the most brutal (allegedly) of the gulags. The island is quite beautiful and unspoilt - but absolutely freezing - even at the end of Summer.

After our northern encounter with the White Sea, we moved onto Novgorod and then finally we left Russia to now find ourselves in the Ukraine. At this moment, we are in the beach resort town of Yalta, which is quite tourist-y and kitsch - but ever so delightful and summery after our cold and frosty days.

A joke for you all... what do you call a nice Russian?... Ukrainian....Ok.... maybe only relevant for those of us battling local signage and customs.

It has been so far jsut over 4 weeks of wonderful holiday, although I fear for my phone bill when I get home. Not calls per se, but the text messages that I am sending constantly to Subtle. He happily jokes to all and sundry that I ran off to Siberia just after we started dating. I must admit, that it was not ideal timing, and my travel companion does comment on the third, but absent, member of our holiday. Six weeks away from Subtle, and Bella, will be difficult, but as they say, absence and all that....... I think he will be most happy when I am once again home. I think he might even miss my snoring at night. Ok, maybe not.